I was looking at t-shirts at a Dianese motorcycle store the other day and I noticed that most of their nicer t-shirts had a high-quality vintage look. The common feature was that they used various embroidery and cut-letter techniques.

Vintage Triumph T-shirt
As usual, once I noticed this technique, I started seeing it everywhere.
Abercrombie uses this decoration technique on loads of their clothing.
It gives the shirts a weight and texture and has a great retro-appeal.

Abercrombie T-Shirt
So we started doing research into the process of creating shirts like these.
As you would expect it is more involved and more expensive than direct printing and heat transfer, but the steps are pretty straight-forward.
Purchase Cut Letters:
You can buy tackle-twill, felt and other letters on line pre-cut from a variety of companies. Since college logo stores, teams and cheerleading squads are the major users of cut letters, the readily available fonts include block text and script.
We found a site, jetcuts.com that will cut out any design and they pre-apply a sticky film to the back of the letters so that they are easy to place.
To test the process, we started with a script version of our company name.
We bought 6 copies of the letters and had them cut from orange, slightly shiny tackle-twill.
Since the letters were to be embroidered on the t-shirts we were asked to specify the method of embroidery including satin, zig-zag or bean-stitch. We chose a bean-stitch, which makes the letters appear as if they are hand-stitched to the garment. Our hope was that since the bean-stitch leaves a small amount of the twill outside of the stitch, with use and washing the letters will fray a bit, giving the t-shirt a vintage look.
The letters arrived a little more than a week later. At first we thought there was e a mistake. Instead of 6 copies of the cut letters, there was only on set in the package and the letters were almost 1/8in thick. On closer inspection, we discovered that the letters were stacked with the adhesive lightly holding them together.
Along with the letters, Jetcut sent a floppy disk with a digital embroidery file. This was a bit of a problem since we no longer have any computers with floppy drives, but we bought one that works with the new Macs online for ~$30.
Place the letters
The next step was to place the letters on a few garments and send them out to be sewn. Since they arrived with a pre-applied sticky film on the back, placing the letters was a snap with a ruler and a heat-press.

Hemp Shirt with Tackle-Twill Letters
We used three different shirts; a really nice kid’s polo from JCrew, a hemp t-shirt from ONNO, and a dark heather cotton Hanes beefy-t.
Embroidery
We took the shirts to AUR embroidery in the Hunter’s Point section of San Francisco, where our friend Kiet is kind enough to help us with small orders.
With Kiet’s help we picked different embroidery thread for each of the three shirts, two of them used a contrasting color and one matched (nearly).
About a week later we picked them up.
Results
We were very pleased with the results. Everyone’s favorite was the kid’s JCrew polo. The letters are placed a little low on the torso to avoid the buttons, but the overall look is great. The adult t-shirts looked good, and I have worn the hemp shirt a couple of times (a pretty good sign considering the number of t-shirts lying around) but there were some issues.

Kids JCrew Shirt with Cut and Sewn Letters
First, the lettering is too small. From edge to edge the name is about 9in wide. The shirt is an XXL, and the name looks a little lost in the center of the chest.
Second, the matching color thread on the kids’ shirt looks much better than the contrasting thread that we used on the adult shirts.
Finally, the shiny tackle-twill is not a prefect match for the rough texture of the hemp shirt. We will see if the shine dies down a bit with washing, but at them moment it doesn’t really fit the look.

Cut and Sew with Contrasting Thread
Follow up:
We still have 3 more sets of the script letters, so we are going to try some different designs. The first, and most obvious is; we are going to put them on women’s size shirts. On the smaller shirts, especially on a women’s polo, the size should work better.
Also, we are going to try a zig-zag stitch and a silk stitch. Kiet says that he can adjust the digital stitch file without going back to jetcut so we will have him do one of each using a matching thread.
Most important, we are going to try a much larger sized letter. The second batch will probably have to wait for a customer order, since we are focused on testing other things, but I will post the results when they are done.